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June 5, 2011
How to convert wireless mouse to work on Li-ion battery.
Tags: batteries, dc-dc, hack, how-to, max1555, mc34063, project
June 7, 2011 at 12:11 am (UTC -7)
Nice use of the MAX1555 (assuming that is what it is)
BTW the MC34063 is about as useful as the 555 now, people have even been using them to make primitive induction heaters because the circuitry is very similar and the chip can be adapted without compromising any of its operational safety limits; ditto for NiMH battery chargers and suchlike.
Someone (i.e. me and Bjorn of 4HV fame) even had the idea of using one as a power supply for the new 445nm 1W laserdiodes for modulation, as the voltage setpoint can be changed merely by shorting a resistor across the bottom leg of the divider.
Would likely work for the 600mW Bluray diodes too as long as there is suitable protection circuitry on the output to stop spikes reaching the sensitive diode.
June 7, 2011 at 1:24 am (UTC -7)
Yeah, MC34063 are almost as useful as 555 timers. And there’s one chip like MC34063 but it has built-in diode, op-amp and voltage reference is not connected to comparator. MA78S40 (UA78S40, LM78S40) – but it becomes more like TL494.
June 20, 2011 at 12:43 pm (UTC -7)
Great job! Good luck to your site!
June 27, 2011 at 8:14 pm (UTC -7)
Nice Project. I came here by chasing a link in edaboard.
Can’t we simply use the AA Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries and charge them by your mini-usb port by a step-down converter?
June 28, 2011 at 2:17 am (UTC -7)
For Ni-Cd, Ni-Mh batteries you need a special charger IC or charge them at 0.1C – which is very slow. Plus they have a high self-discharge rate, which is really annoying.
I’d better put AA size Li-ion battery in battery compartment.
July 8, 2011 at 4:16 am (UTC -7)
My mouse is 3V operated one (2xAA). I’m willing to use a general mobile battery inside mouse that has 3.7 volts. For this, 3.7 to 3.0 converting, I’m going to use an IN4148 diode which has 0.7V forward drop.
Is there anything to care about?
July 8, 2011 at 4:47 am (UTC -7)
3.7V it’s a nominal voltage for Li-ion batteries. In reality you’ll get 4.2V with fully charged battery and 2.7-2.8V with fully discharged.
But your mouse should have dc-dc converter inside which transforms 3.2V-1.6V from batteries to some voltage that your mouse needs.
There’s a big chance that your mouse will work just fine straight from Li-ion battery without any diodes or anything else.
But first you need to test if output voltage of dc-dc converter will rise when you’ll supply more than 3.2V on the input.
You should find two relatively big caps and inductor near dc-dc converter(in case it’s pulse dc-dc converter, not linear regulator). One is input cap, the other is output cap. You’ll need to measure voltage across second, output cap with 3.2V supply and then gradually increase voltage to 4.2V and measure if voltage will rise on the output cap.
If voltage stays the same – you’re good to go! If not – you can try to use some diodes to make the voltage acceptable.
July 8, 2011 at 5:00 am (UTC -7)
Thanks. I did it. I’ve found that there is a voltage converter within the mouse board which converts input voltage to absolute 3V. I’ve tried with 2 old AA batteries giving just 2.2 volts and it made 3V for internal circuitry. When I directly connected the Li-ion battery which was then 4.02V, the voltage converter couldn’t make it down to 3V but naked 3.81V.
Hopefully my mouse didn’t got damaged at the extra volt. Then I’ve just followed my old idea but put 2 diodes in parallel. In open circuit without mouse it shows output as 3.41V, but when I connect it to mouse it drops to 3.04V and when mouse is running to PC (when the red led glows highly), the voltage becomes 2.85V and the inner circuitry of mouse gets 3.0V by the voltage converter inside the PCB.
I’ve run my mouse naked for 10 minutes and observed that the diodes becoming little hot. Finally replaced them with 4007 diodes and my setup now works fine.
Now it’s time to cut the body and fit a charger socket there.
BTW, can I directly connect the battery to charger (5V) for charging? I mean there is a tiny circuit inside battery, will that charge the battery with 5V?
July 8, 2011 at 8:54 am (UTC -7)
Probably you can fit some low-drop regulator between li-ion battery and mouse. That would be a little better way to do it.
And about charger – no, you definitely can’t connect 5V straight to battery! Battery will not charge at all.
The circuitry in the battery is for cutting off charge and discharge voltage. It will not allow battery voltage to drop below about 2.75V and will not allow to charge voltage higher than 4.2V.
For charging li-ion batteries you need special charge controller! Like max1555 I’ve used.
It will charge li-ion battery first with constant current, and than with constant voltage.
Be careful with li-ion batteries! If charge current will get too high – it could blow up or catch on fire! Use only special charge controllers!
July 9, 2011 at 10:58 am (UTC -7)
It’s ok. I’ve found and am using another way. I’ve mounted a dc jack socket in the mouse and am charging it by Li-ion mobile battery charger.
(The china-made one that has clip for holding naked mobile battery and charge with pulses by it’s internal charging circuit).
July 9, 2011 at 12:44 pm (UTC -7)
That’s nice solution too. The only negative side is that you would depend on that charger and you can’t charge your mouse straight from a PC. How about making a universal USB Li-ion charger?
June 28, 2011 at 10:43 am (UTC -7)
Hi men can you make a video about chargeble battery for microphones the problem is that at church we use to many batteries and i want to stop that because when the pastor is priching the battery is almost dead please help me god bless you and men your tutorials are the best
June 28, 2011 at 4:29 pm (UTC -7)
I’m not really familiar with what kind of batteries used in wireless mics. If it’s something like AA batteries, or 9V batteries why can’t you just buy rechargeable batteries + charger instead of using disposable ones?
July 5, 2011 at 9:25 am (UTC -7)
When will you start selling your projects? I have suffered for years because I do not want to use disposable batteries or even rechargeable batteries. But I would buy something like this!
July 5, 2011 at 10:38 am (UTC -7)
I guess not anytime soon.. Currently I’ve got no time to do that, but maybe later I’ll make some kits for sale.
September 15, 2011 at 10:55 am (UTC -7)
Can you do this with the Logitech Performance Mouse MX?? The battery life is horrible!!
September 15, 2011 at 12:04 pm (UTC -7)
It already has charging from usb functionality. So you can disassemble your mouse and look what kind of batteries it has inside and swap it with the same type of battery but with bigger capacity (of course if there’s some free space left inside).
The other option is a wireless charging. But that’s much more complicated than swapping batteries
October 30, 2012 at 4:22 pm (UTC -7)
I wanted to make changes to my wireless mouse. It’s similar to your mouse, except i want to make it have usb connector. The mouse looks like the one on the website, im trying to spend less on batteries. The mouse consumes a lot of battry i even try to turn it off when its not used, but it is still running out quickly. So do you know how to make it have usb instead of wirelss?
April 5, 2013 at 9:54 am (UTC -7)
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October 26, 2013 at 1:48 am (UTC -7)
I watched one of your videos. I found very interesting. Can you please send me circuit diagram voltage DC 1.5 V up to 5V DC and I do not guide. thank you very much
November 3, 2013 at 1:09 am (UTC -7)
Hey! great vid, I’m trying to create the charge contoller but I can’t seem to find the schematics of it. I tried inspecting the picture of the PCB layout but my little knowledge of electronics failed my. Did I just miss it or you just didn’t provide it? Thanks!
June 6, 2011 at 3:02 pm (UTC -7)
[...] It’s no secret that wireless mice can eat through batteries pretty quickly. Rather than keep a fresh supply of AAs on hand at all times, [Phil] decided he would convert his mouse to use a rechargeable lithium polymer battery instead. [...]
June 6, 2011 at 10:07 pm (UTC -7)
June 7, 2011 at 11:53 am (UTC -7)
[...] DC-DC converter (MC34063). Here's all my project details, including video, schematics, and photos: http://jumperone.com/2011/06/convert…pol-batteries/ Reply With Quote View [...]
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