How to build your own linear adjustable power supply based on LM317.
In this tutorial I’ll explain how linear power supply works, what parts it consists of and a lot of small details, like how to calculate smoothing capacitor value, or how to choose a transformer. Plus you’ll see how to build an actual power supply.
You’ll find schematics, datasheets and photos at the end of this page.
Schematics & datasheets:
- Main Board Schematic Rev.2 – The same as in the video
- Main Board Schematic Rev.3
- Metering Panel PSU Schematic
- EagleCAD Project Files
- LM317 Datasheet from National Semi
- LM317 Datasheet from TI
- LM1117 Datasheet from National Semi
Videos from other people on similar topics:
- Electronics Thermal Heatsink Design Tutorial from Dave Jones
- Diode Tutorial & How to build an AC to DC power supply from Afrotechmods
- Electrical Transformer Tutorial from Afrotechmods
All photos are clicable!
 |
 |
|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
73 comments
6 pings
woodsmoke says:
August 14, 2011 at 10:55 am (UTC -7)
That is some serious theory. Anyone thinking of studying electronical engineering can just watch a few weeks of Jumper One tutorials instead.
And a useful project for the long term, not just a wacky LDR robot. Really excellent attention to detail too, although it’s very dense for a beginner. Keep at it Phil.
admin says:
August 15, 2011 at 5:21 am (UTC -7)
There is so much more to this simple PS design than I put out in this video. So this should be a really good learning experience for beginners.
aerozg says:
December 9, 2012 at 6:12 pm (UTC -7)
This will be so much fun to build. I am comibg back to electronics after 10 years and i was just looking for a psu to build. I need it to power a ham radio receiver, so i needs to have very low noise and ripple. This fits the role perfectly. Thank you for sharing!
Iuri~ says:
August 14, 2011 at 11:46 am (UTC -7)
really impressive, you are doing an awesome work! excellent video and explanation!
Keep up the good work Phil.
admin says:
August 15, 2011 at 5:18 am (UTC -7)
Thanks!
Jeremy says:
August 15, 2011 at 6:04 am (UTC -7)
Glad to see you back! Nice job
admin says:
August 15, 2011 at 12:59 pm (UTC -7)
Thx!
adrians says:
August 15, 2011 at 9:52 am (UTC -7)
Hi! Thanks for the presentations
What kind of varnish have you used for the front panel?
admin says:
August 15, 2011 at 1:04 pm (UTC -7)
MOTIP acrylic clear varnish. In two or three thin’ layers. Underneath single sided glossy photo paper 120g/m2
Skleb says:
December 26, 2011 at 3:56 am (UTC -7)
Hi!
Can you more thoroughly describe how did you actually made front panel labels? Can you even make a video explaining it? There aren’t many instructables about it.
admin says:
December 27, 2011 at 6:47 pm (UTC -7)
I’ve used InkScape (www.inkscape.org) free vector graphics software for drawing the front panel layout.
Then I printed it out on a photo paper (now I print all my labels on a paper for labels (one side is sticky)).
Glued down paper to the front panel. Used X-Acto knife to cut holes.
And finally coated everything with clear varnish. (you can use film for cold lamination instead)
I guess, you right, I should make a video on how to make a front panel.
Alex Holsgrove says:
August 15, 2011 at 4:31 pm (UTC -7)
Really great videos. I’d rather have too much detail than too little. As a beginner, it was easy enough to follow so I’m inspired to attempt to build one myself.
Nice to see you have a Uni-T multimeter. I just upgraded to a UT71D although I can’t use the data logging software on my Mac. Out of interest, can you recommend a good soldering station – I’m looking at a Hakko FX-888. Is that heat gun you used on the heat-shrink cable part of some solder station with a hot-air reflow?
Thanks again for the great articles
admin says:
August 16, 2011 at 3:23 pm (UTC -7)
Hakko FX-888 is a really good choice! I need to buy another one soldering station and I’m gonna buy FX-888. Right now I’m using cheap chinese soldering station with a heat gun Lukey-852D+ but the heating element in iron is made by hakko.
Michael Schulze says:
August 15, 2011 at 5:25 pm (UTC -7)
Hi, just out of curiosity, why did you place a capacitor on the inputs of the bridge rectifiers? Some sort of EMI suppression? I just haven’t seen it done before.
Greetings and congrats on a great article.
admin says:
August 16, 2011 at 3:26 pm (UTC -7)
It’s common technique for additional noise suppression. You can find this in a lot of power supplies.
bill says:
August 15, 2011 at 8:02 pm (UTC -7)
Can I ask were you purchased the metering panel?
admin says:
August 16, 2011 at 3:29 pm (UTC -7)
I bought it in a local electronics shop. They’ve got some Chinese suppliers but you can find lots of metering panels online. Just google for it.
Kaushlesh says:
August 15, 2011 at 9:26 pm (UTC -7)
Very well made video… I love the details and explanations you put… I am looking forward for more videos from you.
Keep the good work going….
Bouni says:
August 15, 2011 at 10:59 pm (UTC -7)
Thanks for the very good videos!
Would be nice if you can do a video about switching regulators
admin says:
August 16, 2011 at 3:33 pm (UTC -7)
I’ll probably do that later.
Right now you can watch Dave’s video on DC-DC converters: http://www.eevblog.com/2010/09/10/eevblog-110-lets-design-a-dc-to-dc-switchmode-converter/
But I guess later I’ll do video on switch mode power supplies (AC-DC SMPS) basics.
Adam Ward says:
August 16, 2011 at 4:30 am (UTC -7)
These two videos were fascinating. I especially liked the oscilloscope demonstration of signals throughout the system.
Excellent content, and well presented too. Like it.
Aadeesh says:
August 16, 2011 at 10:11 am (UTC -7)
It was a nice revision for me and good starting point for my junior bro. He learned and made himself one. Thank You. Keep it up Phil.
Your drill tool is quite interesting. Have you made it yourself ?
–Aadeesh
admin says:
August 16, 2011 at 3:39 pm (UTC -7)
Glad to help
About drill: I was looking for something small and pretty powerful, but I haven’t found anything like that, so I bought motor and drill chuck separately on a local market. And then glued big tactile button to motor. Really handy. You can look on ebay for something similar.
Steve fried says:
August 20, 2011 at 3:31 am (UTC -7)
Just what my son and I were looking for. I used to assemble my computer desktops, I started at P2 but stopped at multiple cores, so lots of hardware on shelves. We are now involved in RC airplanes and one day thought that some of those 12V ATX’s , some pushing 20AMP’s, would be great to power the battery charger and allow bench testing components. I spent an hour, then realized that like some battery chargers, I had to show the box it was ok to come alive. That is where I stopped, until YOUR INFORMATION. Thanks, can’t wait to see his face with 4 (FOUR), 12V etc. power supplies on our work bench. Wait, I just remembered that now I will get back
my car battery charger and the 12V jumper battery he is using to power the airplane battery charger.
Thanks again
SF
CreMindES says:
August 21, 2011 at 4:16 am (UTC -7)
Great videos, congrats! I like to watch videos with detailed comments! I’ve been thinking on building a PSU for a while now, and this added a few ideas for the outer design! May I ask about the final budget of this nice PSU?
admin says:
August 23, 2011 at 5:32 am (UTC -7)
I guess it was about $55.
Maurizio Laffi says:
August 25, 2011 at 4:54 am (UTC -7)
Congratulations,
when I had your age (and it was many years ago) I was maybe building similar things, but I kept them for me or for a closed circle of friends.
Thank for sharing: what you are discovering now will accompany you, for all your professional life.
Kind regards
Maurizio Laffi
admin says:
August 27, 2011 at 5:05 pm (UTC -7)
Thanks, Maurizio!
I feel better when I’m sharing or helping others.
Tom says:
August 29, 2011 at 4:57 pm (UTC -7)
what sort of case is that?
admin says:
August 31, 2011 at 1:45 pm (UTC -7)
standard plastic case. a lot of companies is manufacturing those. mine is Z1 size (not sure if that’s a standard notation).
Tom says:
September 5, 2011 at 6:02 am (UTC -7)
Hmmmm… I’m just trying to find a case for a similar project but I can’t work out what to search for in order to find cases of that style.
Rad says:
October 26, 2011 at 10:17 am (UTC -7)
Thanks for the great video!
What kind of electronics background do you have in terms of education/experience? I would like to know as I am learning about electronics and I am curious how you started in this field.
I also am looking for a case like this. I’ve searched for a while looking for this specific case with no luck. Would you be able to provide more information in regards to where you purchased the case from?
Thanks!
jackfrenh says:
November 10, 2011 at 7:47 am (UTC -7)
nice job, but i have a question , what is the current?
jackfrench says:
November 10, 2011 at 9:02 am (UTC -7)
can you give the componement list with spect (ex: R1=180ohms) , voltage of capacitor
and tranformator type or ref
thank
admin says:
November 10, 2011 at 6:15 pm (UTC -7)
It’s maximum current is a little bit over 1.5A – LM317 limit.
I assume, by component list you mean BOM (Bill Of Materials)?!
http://jumperone.com/files/2011/08/lm317-adjustable-psu/lm317_lab_psu_EagleFiles.zip
In that archive you’ll find two files *BOM.htm
jackfrench says:
November 10, 2011 at 9:38 pm (UTC -7)
Great is exactly what I wanted Thanks man
onimusha says:
November 27, 2011 at 11:53 pm (UTC -7)
Hi … could you help me to explain on how to convert 220v AC to 24v AC or 25v AC ….
I have buy a voltage controller but it need 25v AC as an input voltage …
kindly need your help since I need to finish my exam on my school ….
onimusha says:
November 27, 2011 at 11:56 pm (UTC -7)
If you don’t mind, could you help me on about the circuit for 220v AC to 24/25v AC …. really appreaciate for your kind help …
and nice job for the power supply man …
admin says:
November 28, 2011 at 2:00 am (UTC -7)
Hi!
The easiest way to convert 220VAC to 24VAC is to use a transformer. When selecting transformer, you need to know how much current your load will draw. And take transformer about 1/3 more powerful, just to be on the safe side.
The other way to convert higher AC voltage to lower is to use an inverter. But that’s much more complicated and is not used in practice to get 24VAC.
onimusha says:
December 12, 2011 at 6:57 pm (UTC -7)
Hi … thanks for your answer, but I have one more question.
How to create a battery discharger without using a bulbs. I mean that is there any component (i.e transistor serries) that I can use to discharge a AA battery, and could you also can help me to provide a link or circuit diagram.
I really need this knowledge to complete my exam.
I am an 10 years old, and I need to build a multi battery maintenance for my school exam.
Thanks for your attention before.
admin says:
December 13, 2011 at 4:52 pm (UTC -7)
Hi!
Wow, 10 years old, and you already need to do multi-battery maintenance system for school exam! What school are you studying in?
To discharge battery you can use a couple of different methods(here’s some of them):
1. Easiest way to use a single resistor with appropriate power rating.
Let’s say, you need to discharge some lead-acid battery from about 13V to 9V.(just an example)
And you want discharge current to be around 200mA (0.2A)
In this case you can calculate resistor value for average voltage between 13V and 9V:
Vavg = (13+9)/2 = 11V
Then calculate the resistor value, using basic Ohm’s law.
R = Vavg / 0.2A = 11 / 0.2 = 55 Ohms
Then calculate resistor power dissipation (you should know this for choosing the right resistor)
P = (Vavg^2) / R = 121 / 55 = 2.2W
So, for this task you need to take 55 Ohms, 5W(to be on the safe side) resistor!
Discharge current at 13V would be 0.24A, and at the end of discharging your battery, at 9V it would be 0.16A.
2. If you want to have more consistent discharge current, you can use a couple of resistors (2-3-4) and some mosfets or relays to switch them on or off, depending on battery voltage.
For this task it’s better to use N-channel mosfets (for example IRF540), or some relays.
Connect all source pins of mosfets to the negative battery terminal, and also use that terminal as a common system ground.
Then connect one side of each power resistor to corresponding mosfet drain. 3 mosfets – 3 resistors.
And then connect second terminal of each resistor to one point – battery positive terminal.
So, in this case mosfets will work as simple switches, which you can switch on or off by applying positive voltage (about 7V, depends on a mosfet) to it’s gate pin.
3. Build an active constant current electronic load.
Dave has a nice video on that topic, I can’t add anything to it.
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/08/01/eevblog-102-diy-constant-current-dummy-load-for-power-supply-and-battery-testing/
If you got more questions, next time send me an email.
P.S. and also you can post your question on http://eevblog.com/forum/
There would be a lot of people, who can help you. More people might find a better solution for you. But if you would post there, describe requirements for your project in detail, including what has been done and what else you need to do.
- Phil
onimusha says:
December 26, 2011 at 7:56 pm (UTC -7)
Hi Mr Phil,
Many thanks for your answer, I have try it and it works … now I have some problem to display the voltage on 7 segment display. I could not found ICL7107 in my area.
Could I use another component to replace ICL7107 so I could display the voltage on 7 segment. if yes, what component that I can to use and do you have the schematic for that component.
Sorry if my english is bad, because I am from japan and live in other country, and I could not found ICL7107 in here.
Many thanks for your kind assistant.
admin says:
December 27, 2011 at 6:30 pm (UTC -7)
Hi!
There are a lot of similar display drivers like that exists. You can look here:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/integrated-circuits-ics/pmic-display-drivers/2556426
You can select two or more parameters using ctrl button.
Always refer to component datasheet first when you need some example how to use that component. You’ll find schematic examples and a lot of useful info there.
You can find datasheets on digikey, http://datasheetcatalog.com/, manufacturer’s website and google of course.
But the easier way to display the voltage is to use a metering panel. If you don’t specifically need to design your own metering circuit with 7seg. display driver, than I suggest you to use some metering panel, which you can easily find anywhere.
They usually can measure up to +/- 200mV, but you can use a simple voltage divider to measure any voltage you need.
And be aware of common ground measuring ability of such panels. Because most of the panels would require a separate (isolated) power supply in order to work. It could be just a 9V battery, or some small transformer with rectifier and cap.
And your English is really good! Just keep practicing and it’ll be much better in time.
jackfrench says:
January 3, 2012 at 11:51 pm (UTC -7)
hi,
i using LM350T than LM317
LM350T can have 3amp in output and protected from short circuit,
can you tell me what is the value of the resistor and power of adjustment resistor
and if this also applies to the LM350T
with your tutorials my laboratorie PSU is in good way
thank you in advance
jackfrench says:
January 5, 2012 at 12:03 am (UTC -7)
hi,
i have find the value of potentiometer but what power of this potentiometer you sugest to me 1W, 2W, 5W or more?
in output is 30volt 3amp
thank you in advance
admin says:
January 8, 2012 at 2:49 am (UTC -7)
It depends on pot value and fixed resistor in series value you want to use.
Generally you don’t want to go over 0.5W power dissipation for this kind of things. Just stick with 1W or 2W pot and take appropriate resistance values to dissipate no more than 0.3-0.5W.
Use Ohm’s Law! U = I*R. P = U*I, etc.
jackfrench says:
January 8, 2012 at 11:15 pm (UTC -7)
hi,
i have test with 1,5k ohms but when is go to 0ohms the potentiometer smoke
and i use your equation:
r2=r1x(Vout-1.25/1.25)
when i remplace:
r2=270x(30-1,25/1,25)=6210ohms
so i use 10kohms potensiometer
U=IxR
R=30/3=10Kohms
now P=UxI
P=30×3=90W!
WTF i think it doesn’t exist or i have probleme in my calcul
can you help me im lost very lost
good bye
admin says:
January 9, 2012 at 12:41 am (UTC -7)
First, I need a schematic that you are using!
Secondly, where did you get 3A in P = 30×3 formula?
jackfrench says:
January 11, 2012 at 10:39 am (UTC -7)
the schematique is same to you just change 317 by 350
and 3A come from LM350T is max output
shematic:
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg835/scaled.php?server=835&filename=sanstitre1tp.png&res=medium
Sridhar says:
February 3, 2012 at 2:30 pm (UTC -7)
Hi,
I would like to design 0-500V variable dc power supply. So can you please tell me, what kind of voltage regulator should I use.
luke says:
March 18, 2012 at 7:57 am (UTC -7)
good day jumperone,
thanks for the in depth videos. learned alot from them.
since this project connects directly to mains,i would like to ask you about the plans, thoughts and cosinderations regarding grounding this project (from the mains side and the circuit side).
lots of tutorial on the web but many only briefly mention about this issue. since this concerns safety,it has actually made me put this project on hold.
appreciate your assistance.
luke.
admin says:
March 19, 2012 at 12:41 pm (UTC -7)
In this case you don’t need to worry about grounding too much, because transformer separates mains high voltage and low voltage part. Some transformers have a shield between primary and secondary windings, if it does – it needs to be connected to mains earth.
Main thing you can do in this case to ensure safety of your device is to buy (salvage, etc.) a good quality transformer.
craig says:
March 22, 2012 at 2:26 am (UTC -7)
I wish I had found this video before i made my first power supply. The one I did caught fire!!
Marco says:
April 13, 2012 at 6:58 am (UTC -7)
I just wanted to add my thanks to your growing list of kudos. As a self-schooled novice (I started reading about electronics on a whim about six months ago and am now utterly besotted – ruined for life!) yours is precisely the sort of presentation that makes it all hang together for me. Just goes to show that, properly construed, even the simplest circuit can be an exemplar of broader theoretical and practical principles. Reading/watching your presentation was a perfect catalyst – I started having these flashes of insight, could almost hear the puzzle pieces clicking into place. Like a series of “aha!” moments when all the theory which had seemed so nebulous all of a sudden takes on shape and mass. Your presentation style offers people like me so much more than the step-by-step “how-to” guides that take you from point A to point B without ever showing you why the journey matters. Keep up the superb work and know the amount of time and effort you put in is deeply appreciated by grateful newcomers.
wes says:
April 17, 2012 at 11:43 am (UTC -7)
What are the specs of the transformer you used in this design?
Steve says:
April 18, 2012 at 9:16 pm (UTC -7)
Great video! I have been using a bread/proto board for school and I’m not a fan. I’d love to find a 120VAC to a variable 36VDC power supply pcb made to operate with: LM317, 4 caps (one ceramic, one output), 4 diodes(bridge) and three resistors (one 5k pot, one for led, one for LM317 pins 2+3). Seems pretty darn close to what you used. Did you buy yours or make it? I’ve had no luck finding the pcb for sale (by itself) online. Any help you could provide would be awesome.
onimusha says:
May 14, 2012 at 9:27 pm (UTC -7)
Hi … Mr. Phil
Remember me
I have finished this power supply project and thanks to you, now I have pass my exam with A++ and my power supply will be use for my school for project sample for other student that would like to take similar exam.
Really 2x appreaciate for your help in the past.
But I still wondering on how to create autocut off battery charger.
fyi, I would like to build another power supply for my self that I will use it to charge nimh/nicd battery for my toys. But I could not found any idea on how to terminate the charge process when my battery in full charge condition.
Kindly need your help, and really sorry to rush you again.
Many thanks Mr. Phil and have a good day.
admin says:
May 16, 2012 at 6:57 pm (UTC -7)
Hi,
Sure, I remember you!
Glad to hear, that it was useful to you.
You want to build an automatic charger for ordinary sealed lead-acid batteries, right?
If so, than it’s really easy to do with using the same LM317.
First you need to understand how to charge those batteries.
Go to “Charge Methods” http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/
to learn about what is C-Rate and what is the algorithm of charging a different types of batteries.
Then find LM317 datasheet from National Semiconductor and Texas Instruments. There you’ll find a couple of simple schematics for charging a lead-acid batteries.
That’s pretty much it.
And how to charge a lead-acid batteries in a nutshell (the simple way):
1. First charge it with a constant current of 0.1C
2. When voltage will rise to 13.8-14.8V (depends on the battery and what you’ll use it for) keep the voltage on the same level for some time (or indefinitely).
(LM317 charger does it all automatically)
Charging Ni-Mh and Ni-Cd batteries is much more complex, so it’s better to buy a proper commercial charger.
But if you still want to charge those batteries at home, than you can charge them with constant current of 0.1C for 10hours, or 0.2C for 5hours. more current is more dangerous without proper temperature and delta-V control.
And before charging these batteries this way, you’d better to completely discharge them. Although Ni-Cd batteries could be charged with 0.1C without harm even if they full.
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have more questions.
P.S. Just call me Phil. I didn’t get used to the whole Mr. thing ))
Cheers!
Vlad says:
May 19, 2012 at 6:35 am (UTC -7)
Hi,
(sorry, sounds sad maybe). I have the components to build this project and the power supply conversion one as well and I think your work has given me the boost that I needed.
I enjoyed all the videos and articles on your site. Very impressive work.
I searched the net for a PC power supply conversion and your video came up. I’ve been buying electronic components for a few years now for various projects but I’ve done very little because there’s no time being a father of two. I think I’ve become addicted to collecting different types of capacitors
Thanks
Vlad
onimusha says:
May 29, 2012 at 7:19 pm (UTC -7)
Hi Phil,
Thanks for your answer before, now I have success to build my power supply with auto shut off function.
Really appreciate for your help.
By the way, could you help me to explain on how to adjust current in power supply.
I would like to have a power supply that could adjust voltage and current with different knob.
Ankit ramani says:
June 5, 2012 at 1:03 am (UTC -7)
Hi..!
Can i make the 2 output for this same circuit..?
Sammy says:
June 21, 2012 at 3:11 pm (UTC -7)
Hi,
Can you please help me with building a power supply that produces 0-20v at 1amp, i need it for a school project, i’ve been at it for weeks and would greatly appreciate it if you can please assist me. I understand the concept of using the transformer and the bridge rectifier to convert the ac to a pulsating dc, what i need help with is understanding what other components to use to produce my required voltage and current.
Please help…
jono667 says:
June 26, 2012 at 10:32 pm (UTC -7)
hey!
Wow thanks a lot for all this very useful information, it was very helpful. I am now going to build something a bit like this.
Would this power supply take an input of 40V DC?
Jonathan says:
June 27, 2012 at 9:53 am (UTC -7)
Hi there, i enjoy watching your video very much… Do you mind to tell me what model of soldering iron are you using? thank you….
gringo8217 says:
September 18, 2012 at 4:17 am (UTC -7)
Excellent video and site !!! keep them coming.
Jerry says:
October 4, 2012 at 8:23 pm (UTC -7)
Part list
Vlad says:
December 4, 2012 at 7:18 am (UTC -7)
Hi,
I’m interested in building a high current power supply, based on the LM317 regulation circuit. I have a big 800 watts iron core transformer and 20 or more 2N3055 transistors. I have already tried building the project, but the voltage regulation was very poor and dropped significantly above say 15-20 amps. The transformer gives 16 volts at its output and I used 6 2N3055, which I think is too few. My aim is to get 12-13 volts stable voltage at about 40 amps of current. Is this possible with the transformer that I have, or the voltage (16volts) is not high enough? Maybe you could write an article about that?
ghiuve says:
January 30, 2013 at 12:30 pm (UTC -7)
can you give me over to the PCB not to place parts
use eagle cad please help me
ghiuve says:
February 11, 2013 at 9:49 am (UTC -7)
hello how are ohms R2, R4, R5 and R7? What is D7
sdsd says:
March 6, 2013 at 12:19 am (UTC -7)
Would it be possible to make a separate block of the voltage regulator and hook it up to the bench atx power supply?
electro says:
March 24, 2013 at 8:59 am (UTC -7)
Well Nice work. i have tried it but it all ends up with R1 burnout which if from Vout to Adj. I have tried 100ohm to 500ohm but result is same. I am using Transformer of 24v 800mA.
Can you you help me out?
Magneto says:
May 7, 2013 at 3:57 am (UTC -7)
I want to thank you for the excellent videos. I’m a newbie in electronics and I’m learning a lot thanks to you.
I do have a few questions regarding oscilloscopes and mains earth ground.
I noticed that on this video, your transformer was not grounded. I’ve seen several times in other articles that one must always have a ground connection.
I’ve watched Dave Jones video on “how not to blow up your oscilloscope”. In this video he explains the dangers of connecting the ground probes of the oscilloscope to a mains grounded device. He also mentions that in order to avoid this issue, one must use a floating device (battery powered).
So my question is; how are you getting away with probing the circuit without a mains ground? is your oscilloscope running off battery power?
I just got a Owon sds6062v which has the option for battery power.
If I use the battery instead of mains power to run the oscilloscope, will I be save from shorting out the mains ground of test circuits?
I’m currently converting an ATX PSU into a variable voltage PSU based on the LM350 chip. Obliviously, the ATX PSU is grounded. Would it be safe to use the oscilloscope on battery power to avoid shorting the mains ground? If not, would it be safe to remove the ground connection from the PSU?
I apologize if the questions don’t make much sense. I’m still learning electronics and just want to be sure safety comes first:)
mlax says:
May 18, 2013 at 12:30 pm (UTC -7)
What si the D7 diode in dchametic and BOM ?
Simple Linear Adjustable Power Supply Tutorial « adafruit industries blog says:
August 14, 2011 at 9:02 pm (UTC -7)
[...] Simple Linear Adjustable Power Supply Tutorial (Based Around LM317) by JumperOneTV… [...]
Electronics-Lab.com Blog » Blog Archive » Simple Linear Adjustable Power Supply Tutorial says:
September 13, 2011 at 2:15 pm (UTC -7)
[...] Linear Adjustable Power Supply Tutorial – [Link] Tags: Linear, LM317, MIC2941, Power, supply Filed in Power supply | 1 views No Comments [...]
Mancave» Blog Archief » DIY power supply voor je PC says:
September 26, 2011 at 5:49 am (UTC -7)
[...] maakte ons attent op de website Jumper One. In twee uitgebreide en zeer gedetailleerde tutorials leer je alles over power supplies. Je vindt [...]
Electronics-Lab.com Blog » Blog Archive » LM317 Simple Adjustable Linear Power Supply says:
November 22, 2011 at 10:05 am (UTC -7)
[...] Simple Adjustable Linear Power Supply – [Link] Tags: Linear, LM317, Power, supply Filed in Power supply | 2 views No Comments [...]
Adjustable Power Supply | BradfordHenson.comBradfordHenson.com says:
February 17, 2013 at 7:47 am (UTC -7)
[...] http://jumperone.com/2011/08/lm317-adjustable-psu/ [...]
LM317 Linear Power Supply | BradHenson.com says:
March 15, 2013 at 7:07 pm (UTC -7)
[...] http://jumperone.com/2011/08/lm317-adjustable-psu/ [...]